Power Foods to Make Your Skin Glow

I recently read an article by Women's Health Magazine stating the best foods to make your skin glow. Every woman (and man) needs to read this article. Below is the summation of the foods and the link to the Women's Health Magazine article. Remember to feed your skin inside and out!


1. Almonds - Almonds are seeds, not nuts, and they're stuffed with vitamin E, a potent sun blocker. Volunteers who consumed 14 milligrams of the vitamin per day (about 20 almonds) and then were exposed to UV light sunburned less than those who took none. "Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant that helps to protect skin cells from UV light and other environmental factors that generate cell-damaging free radicals," explains Jeffrey Dover, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University.


2. Carrots - Think of them as orange wonder wands—good for eyeballs, good for clearing up breakouts. Credit vitamin A. "It helps prevent the overproduction of cells in the skin's outer layer," says Howard Murad, M.D., associate clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA's David Geffen School of Medicine. That's where dead cells and sebum combine and clog pores. Another reason to snack on carrots: Vitamin A also reduces the development of skin-cancer cells. Nibble on a half-cup of baby carrots (that's about 16) per day.


3. Dark Chocolate - Flavonols, the antioxidants in dark chocolate, reduce roughness in the skin and protect against sun damage. In a study published in The Journal of Nutrition, women who drank cocoa fortified with 326 milligrams of flavonols (equal to a standard Hershey's Special Dark bar) had better skin texture and stronger resistance to UV rays than those who drank cocoa containing just a small amount of the antioxidant. You need just a few ounces a day.


4. Flaxseed - Flaxseeds contain omega-3 fatty acids, which erase spots and iron out fine lines. The British Journal of Nutritionreported that participants in one study who downed just over two grams (about half a teaspoon) of O-3's in six weeks experienced significantly less irritation and redness, along with better-hydrated skin. "The fats are believed to stifle your body's response to irritation and attract water to skin cells to plump up the skin and reduce wrinkles," Murad says. Sprinkle seeds on oatmeal or veggies.


5. Green Tea - Green tea releases catechins, a type of antioxidant with proven anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. (The tea's antioxidants start to degrade as it cools, so drink it while it's hot.) A 2007 study in The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry found that drinking two to six cups a day not only helps prevent skin cancer but may reverse the effects of sun damage by neutralizing the changes that appear in sun-exposed skin.


6. Safflower Oil - The omega-6 fatty acids found in safflower oil can be the ultimate moisturizer for people who suffer from painfully dry, flaky, itchy skin. They keep cell walls supple, allowing water to better penetrate the skin. Scientists have found that this oil may help people who suffer from severe conditions like eczema. So shoot for an amount that gives you 5 to 10 percent of your daily calories.


7. Spinach - In a study published in the International Journal of Cancer, people who ate the most leafy greens actually had half as many skin tumors over 11 years as those who ate the least. It's thought that the folate in these veggies may help repair and maintain DNA—basically bolstering cells' ability to renew themselves. That reduces the likelihood of cancer-cell growth, Drayer says. Another bonus of spinach is the water in greens penetrates cell membranes—which makes for plumper and less wrinkled skin. 


8. Sweet Potatoes - Sweet potatoes are loaded with vitamin C, which smooths out wrinkles. "Vitamin C is essential to collagen production," Dover says, "and the more collagen you have, the less creased your skin looks." In fact, a recent study in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that volunteers who consumed about four milligrams of C (that's about half a small sweet tater) daily for three years decreased the appearance of wrinkles by 11 percent.


9. Tomatoes - Lycopene, the phytochemical that makes tomatoes red, helps eliminate skin-aging free radicals caused by ultraviolet rays, according to Murad. Your body gains the most sun-shielding nutrients when the vegetable is heated. Just a half-cup of cooked tomatoes or pasta sauce has 16 milligrams of lycopene; along with ample sunscreen, that daily dose should help keep you out of the red.


10. Tuna in a Can - Tuna in a can contains selenium. This nutrient helps preserve elastin, a protein that keeps your skin smooth and tight. The antioxidant is also believed to buffer against the sun (it stops free radicals created by UV exposure from damaging cells). Three ounces, or half a can per day, can help.


http://www.womenshealthmag.com/beauty/perfect-skin-diet?page=10

Best Fixes for Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is something that everyone wants to avoid as a clear complexion is one of the defining qualities of beautiful skin. Having darker skin, I have to be careful to avoid irritation, inflammation and acne. I do get the occasional pimple and when I do it tends to leave some hyperpigmentation even when it is not extracted. One of my favorite product lines is Image Skincare. Their products are effective, work well on any skin color, contains wonderful ingredients and are more importantly, affordable. It is oil-free and will lighten freckles, melasma and age spots. I use Image Skincare "Ageless Total Skin Lightening Serum" about two to three days a week. The main ingredients are rumex (tyrosinase inhibitor), mulberry (skin lightener), berry (skin lightener), kojic acid (skin lightener), licorice (natural skin lightener), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C antioxidant) and arbutin (prevents the formation of melanin). I apply this to my entire face, neck and decollete and ALWAYS apply sunscreen after use because it is sun sensitive.

If you are in the market for a skin lightener look for ingredients with kojic acid, mulberry, bearberry, magnesium phosphate, rumex, aspergillus ferment, ergothioneine, gluconic acid, zinc glycinate, kiwi fruit, ferula foetida (giant fennel). Dermalogica has a line called "ChromaWhite TRx" that contains many of these ingredients.

Image Skincare "Ageless Total Skin Lightening Serum"

http://www.imageskincare.com/collections/ageless/products/ageless-total-skin-lightening-serum

Dermalogica "ChromaWhite TRx"
http://www.dermalogica.com/us/html/products.html?type=product_system&id=ChromaWhite%20TRx®

Brazilian Waxing & What to Expect

Brazilian bikini waxes were introduced to New York in 1987 by seven Brazilian-born sisters, the J Sisters. The Brazilian is one of the most popular hair removal methods in the United States. Brazilian waxes differ from regular bikini waxes because hair can be removed in the front, back and everything in between. A "landing strip" is typically left in the front, but many people opt for everything to be removed. Having all the hair removed is referred to as the "Full Brazilian.” It is not difficult to perform Brazilian waxing as the time it takes to complete is between 15 and 45 minutes. So what should you expect when you get a Brazilian wax? Many people are a little nervous or timid about asking questions about the service and what to expect so hopefully this provides some clarification. The steps are as follows:

1.     All body and facial waxing treatments should occur in a private room with a door. You will be left alone and asked to remove pants and underwear. Then you will be asked to lie on the bed on top of clean paper or a towel. Client comfort should be the first priority of any spa and a cleaning napkin and/or a paper thong can be requested.

2.     Only 1/4 inch of hair is needed for the wax to grab onto the skin so your esthetician may need to trim pubic hair to the correct length. Note, gloves are/should be worn at all times by the esthetician. A general rule of thumb is that hair needs to be a quarter-inch if it's fine and a half-inch if it's coarse. As an esthetician I will say coming into the spa with the correct hair length is a huge timesaver!

3.     The esthetician will liberally apply a pre-wax skin cleaning solution and/or talcum powder to the skin to prep the skin and keep the hot wax from sticking to skin.

4.     Your esthetician will dip a wooden waxing stick into a pot of hard wax and then spread it onto your skin and hair. Once the wax has hardened it will be removed without the use of a cloth strip. Hard wax is recommended for this area because it is easier to remove, great for sensitive skin and hurts less than strip wax (wax requiring the use of muslin or rice paper for removal).

5.     Waxing usually starts in the front and moves toward the back. You may be asked to help hold the skin taut. Since the Brazilian means everything off except for a "landing strip" in the front, don't be surprised if and when the technician asks about removing the hair between the buttocks. (Yes, for every person, hair grows there)! If you want to be completely bare opt for the “Full Brazilian." When choosing the Full Brazilian, you will be asked to either move your leg up toward your chest so the esthetician can wax the perianal region or you will be asked to get on all fours. Again, guest comfort is the highest concern so if you chose to opt out of hair removal between the buttocks, inform your esthetician and you will be accommodated.

6.     Once the waxing is complete, the esthetician will tweeze any stray hairs.

7.     The esthetician will spread soothing lotion over the waxed areas. If you later develop bumps, redness or ingrown hairs, gently exfoliate the area with a body scrub and then apply a lotion or cleanser with alpha hydroxy acid. To keep ingrown hairs at bay, make sure to exfoliate the area in the days leading up to your appointment and a couple of days after the appointment.

8.     Once complete, write down the name of your esthetician or request a business card so when you make another appointment you can get the same person and don't have to bare all for another complete stranger (wink). Typically, you'll need to wax every 4 weeks and trust me, the first time hurts the most BUT the more you do it, the less painful it becomes. Add this service to a full body wax and happily throw away your razors!

The Skin Layers

At salons and day spas, work is done on the epidermis, the outermost layer of skin. Unless a guest goes to a doctor’s office or med spa, this is the only layer that will be treated during services. The skin is a complicated organ and if any of the structures within the skin are not working properly, a rash, ingrown hair or abnormal sensation is the result. Below is a quick overview of the three layers of the skin.

1. Epidermis
 - The epidermis is the outer layer of skin. Its main functions are protection, absorption, sensation, secretion, excretion and regulation. The thickness of the epidermis varies in different types of skin. It is the thinnest on the eyelids at .05 mm and the thickest on the palms and soles at 1.5 mm.
2. Dermis - 
The dermis is responsible for the tensile strength of skin. Its main functions are to regulate temperature and to supply the epidermis with nutrient-saturated blood. Much of the body's water supply is stored within the dermis. The dermis also contains a thin arrangement of collagen and elastin fibers. Our structure, shape and elasticity is determined in this layer. The thickness is .3 mm on the eyelid and 3.0 mm on the back.
3. Subcutaneous Tissue - 
The subcutaneous tissue is a layer of fat and connective tissue that houses larger blood vessels and nerves. It is the loose, connective tissue directly beneath the dermis. These cells contain stored fat as an energy reserve. This layer also provides a layer of insulation to conserve internal body heat as well as a cushion to protect the bones and internal organs. The size of this layer varies throughout the body and from person to person.

To Peel or Not to Peel? Everything You Need to Know About Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are available at most day spas and doctor offices. Many people are leery to try them because of misconceptions or (after hearing horror stories) but peels can be a fast and effective way to attain skin care goals.


There are three categories of peels: light/superficial, medium and deep peels. Light/superficial peels are done at the majority of day spas as they only penetrate the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis. Medium depth peels can penetrate to the upper most portion of the dermis while deep peels can penetrate the dermis to the outermost part of the subcutaneous layer. The only type of peels that day spas/resorts can perform without a medical physician on staff are light/superficial peels. Medium to deep peels are are typically performed at med spas, dermatologist offices or at a plastic surgeon's office.


So...what is a chemical peel? Chemical peels involve the use of a chemical agent to exfoliate the skin and increase cellular turnover. Chemical peels can cause the top layer of the skin (epidermis) to flake off with the end result being healthier and fresh skin taking the place of the removed skin layer. Depending on the skin type and the type of condition to be treated, you may need several peeling sessions that can be done every two to six weeks in order to achieve the desired results. 


What Conditions Do a Chemical Peel Treat? Chemical peels can be performed on the face, neck, or even hands depending on the type of peel. Peels can:

• Reduce fine lines under the eyes and around the mouth
• Treat wrinkles caused by sun damage, aging, and family history
• Improve the appearance of mild scarring
• Treat certain types of acne
• Reduce age spots, freckles, and dark patches due to pregnancy or taking birth control pills (melasma)
• Improve the look and feel of skin that is dull in texture and color

Who Is a Good Candidate For a Chemical Peel? Generally, fair-skinned and light-haired patients are ideal candidates for chemical peels. Olive skin and Darker skin types may also have excellent results, depending upon the type of problem being treated and the type of peel used. It is recommended for these skin types to start off with a mild peel (lactic acid) to see how the skin reacts. 


How Are Chemical Peels Performed? First, the skin is thoroughly cleansed with an agent that removes excess oils and the eyes and hair are protected. Usually a petroleum based substance goes around the eyes, lips and corners/underneath the nose. One or more chemical solutions, such as glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid, lactic acid, or carbolic acid (phenol) are applied to small areas on the skin. These applications produce a controlled wound, enabling new, regenerated skin to appear. Organic peels like lactic acid can be applied to the face, neck, decollete, elbows and hands. Organic peels are time dependent as opposed to "layer" dependent. Inorganic peels like TCA or phenol are "layer" dependent meaning no more than 4 applications with gauze or cotton can be applied to the face. The idea of 4 applications assumes the peel is being done at a spa or considered light/superficial.  


Lastly, What type of chemical peels are available and what do they treat (listed from most mild to aggressive)?

• Lactic Acid – Dehydrated skin, photo-ageing, pigmentation, excellent for skin of color
• Salicylic 20% - Mild to moderate acne
• Jessner – Moderate to advanced acne, keratinized skin, aging skin, effective for younger skin (<35 years old)
• AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid) – Mild to moderate aging, superficial skin rejuvenation
• Vitamin A – Moderate to advanced acne, keratinized skin, hyper-pigmentation, wrinkles, effective for brightening the skin
• TCA – Hyper-pigmentation, keratinized (rough), advanced aging, effective for mature skin

I hope this helped clear up any questions about chemical peels. I myself am a regular chemical peel client. I was very cautious when starting my peels but I started with very mild peels and worked my way up to more aggressive ones that target my biggest concern; hyper-pigmentation and hydration. Feel free to contact me to get the details about my favorite peel brands.

New FDA Rules Regarding Sunscreen

There are a lot of misconceptions about sunscreen and rightfully so. However, on June 14, 2011 the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced new requirements for sunscreens currently sold over-the-counter (OTC). These requirements support the FDA's ongoing efforts to ensure that sunscreens meet modern-day standards for safety and effectiveness. Consumers will begin to see significant changes to sunscreen labels in summer of 2012.


These changes include:
1. If the product passes FDA’s tests for both UVB and UVA, it can be labeled as ‘broad spectrum’. (Previously, only UVB protection was tested, which is where the SPF value comes from). Look for ‘broad spectrum’ on the label for maximum protection.
2. If a ‘broad-spectrum’ product has a minimum of SPF15 and is used regularly along with other sun-protection measures (clothing, shade), then these products can state on the label that they not only help prevent sunburn, but also reduce the risk of cancer and reduce signs of early skin aging.
3. No more ‘sunblock,’ ‘sweatproof’ or ‘waterproof’ claims. Instead FDA will allow “water resistant (40minutes)” or “extra water resistant (80minutes)” as relevant.
4. Remember to apply at least every two hours, especially if swimming or sweating.
5. From now on, all sunscreen products must include standard ‘drug facts’ information, on the back and/or side of the container. Look for this panel on the package for detailed information.


For more detailed information about these changes, visit FDA Sunscreen Changes