There are three categories of peels: light/superficial, medium and deep peels. Light/superficial peels are done at the majority of day spas as they only penetrate the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis. Medium depth peels can penetrate to the upper most portion of the dermis while deep peels can penetrate the dermis to the outermost part of the subcutaneous layer. The only type of peels that day spas/resorts can perform without a medical physician on staff are light/superficial peels. Medium to deep peels are are typically performed at med spas, dermatologist offices or at a plastic surgeon's office.
So...what is a chemical peel? Chemical peels involve the use of a chemical agent to exfoliate the skin and increase cellular turnover. Chemical peels can cause the top layer of the skin (epidermis) to flake off with the end result being healthier and fresh skin taking the place of the removed skin layer. Depending on the skin type and the type of condition to be treated, you may need several peeling sessions that can be done every two to six weeks in order to achieve the desired results.
What Conditions Do a Chemical Peel Treat? Chemical peels can be performed on the face, neck, or even hands depending on the type of peel. Peels can:
- Reduce fine lines under the eyes and around the mouth
- Treat wrinkles caused by sun damage, aging, and family history
- Improve the appearance of mild scarring
- Treat certain types of acne
- Reduce age spots, freckles, and dark patches due to pregnancy or taking birth control pills (melasma)
- Improve the look and feel of skin that is dull in texture and color
Who Is a Good Candidate For a Chemical Peel? Generally, fair-skinned and light-haired patients are ideal candidates for chemical peels. Olive skin and Darker skin types may also have excellent results, depending upon the type of problem being treated and the type of peel used. It is recommended for these skin types to start off with a mild peel (lactic acid) to see how the skin reacts.
How Are Chemical Peels Performed? First, the skin is thoroughly cleansed with an agent that removes excess oils and the eyes and hair are protected. Usually a petroleum based substance goes around the eyes, lips and corners/underneath the nose. One or more chemical solutions, such as glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), salicylic acid, lactic acid, or carbolic acid (phenol) are applied to small areas on the skin. These applications produce a controlled wound, enabling new, regenerated skin to appear. Organic peels like lactic acid can be applied to the face, neck, decollete, elbows and hands. Organic peels are time dependent as opposed to "layer" dependent. Inorganic peels like TCA or phenol are "layer" dependent meaning no more than 4 applications with gauze or cotton can be applied to the face. The idea of 4 applications assumes the peel is being done at a spa or considered light/superficial.
Lastly, What type of chemical peels are available and what do they treat (listed from most mild to aggressive)?
- Lactic Acid – Dehydrated skin, photo-ageing, pigmentation, excellent for skin of color
- Salicylic 20% - Mild to moderate acne
- Jessner – Moderate to advanced acne, keratinized skin, aging skin, effective for younger skin (<35 years old)
- AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid) – Mild to moderate aging, superficial skin rejuvenation
- Vitamin A – Moderate to advanced acne, keratinized skin, hyper-pigmentation, wrinkles, effective for brightening the skin
- TCA – Hyper-pigmentation, keratinized (rough), advanced aging, effective for mature skin
I hope this helped clear up any questions about chemical peels. I myself am a regular chemical peel client. I was very cautious when starting my peels but I started with very mild peels and worked my way up to more aggressive ones that target my biggest concern; hyper-pigmentation and hydration. Feel free to contact me to get the details about my favorite peel brands.
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